It’s not the bears you need to worry about; it’s the elk. At least, that was my conclusion as I cycled from Jasper townsite to Maligne Lake.
I’ve wanted to ride this road for years—23, to be exact—and finally getting the chance did not disappoint.
The Start
The route itself is straightforward: follow Maligne Lake Road for 44 kilometres until it runs out at the lake. The numbers, however, tell a different story: nearly 900 metres of elevation gain makes this a serious ride, even if the road never feels brutally steep.
There are plenty of hotels at that end of town, which was untouched by the 2024 forest fire. The closest to the start of the climb is the Fairmont’s Jasper Park Lodge, where prices in peak season can easily set you back a couple of thousand dollars a night.
Needless to say, I didn’t stay there. It took me only 10 minutes to leave the townsite from my hotel, navigate the short stretch of Highway 16, and reach the turning to the road. I easily negotiated the H.J. Moberly Bridge that spans the Athabasca River and began my ride to one of the Canadian Rockies’ most iconic lakes.
The First 10 Kilometres
However, as soon as I turned onto the road, I had to stop. Crossing in front of me was a gaggle of Canada geese! They were in no hurry, and fearing I could be pecked to death if I encroached, I kept a safe distance and let them cross. With the road now clear, I continued the journey past the sign which indicated that Maligne Lake was 44 km ahead.
I had opted to leave early to avoid the traffic.
In the first 10 kilometres, I got to see up close the devastation caused by the 2024 forest fire, but despite the forests being destroy, life had returned.
The steepest section of the climb is at the start, and it was here, when I was pedalling at my slowest, that I encountered the biggest bull elk I have ever seen, complete with his rack of antlers which looked like daggers, ready to impale a slow-pedalling cyclist that got too close.
Luckily, I spotted him early, but he was on my side of the road! There was no option; I maneuvered to the opposite side, realizing I would stand a better chance against an oncoming truck than those antlers, where my Lycra would offer no protection.
As I ascended the steepest section, there was a lookout point over Jasper. That doubled as a nice resting point where I could catch my breath and survey the damage caused by the fire.
Medicine Lake
After negotiating the taxing first 10 kilometres, you will leave the burned-out forest behind. There is a gradual ascent to Medicine Lake. Thick pine forests line the road, and running parallel is the Maligne River, which offered a nice breeze as I edged my way closer to Medicine Lake.
Then, after one final corner, the trees suddenly gave way to Medicine Lake. After kilometres of climbing through the forest, the turquoise water, framed by two towering mountain ranges, was an immense sight.
This marked the halfway point of the trip, and there was immediately a nice viewpoint where I could admire its scale. My peaceful viewing was interrupted by marmots that were playing below.
But there was still another 23 kilometres to go—roughly an hour in the saddle—so I didn’t linger for long.
I was soon navigating the side of the lake, passing an abandoned bald eagle’s nest and keeping a safe distance from the edge of the road.
The route hugs the lakeshore, winding through the landscape until, almost before you realise it, you reach the far end of the lake, with the mountains rising dramatically around you.
Uphill Stretch
From Medicine Lake onwards, the road settles into a steady 2–4% gradient, although there are occasional sharper pitches. Around the 30-kilometre mark, one section ramps progressively from 4% to 8% and then 10%. It isn’t particularly long, but by this point the kilometres are beginning to tell, and the extra gradient is enough to make the legs complain.
Maligne Lake
After 44 kilometres, I reached the end destination, Maligne Lake. Leaving early meant that I could enjoy the ride without being impeded by traffic, taking a little under 2 hours, with 900 meters of ascent. Arriving early meant I was able to enjoy seeing the lake at its calmest, before the boat cruises to Spirit Island were running. I was also fortunate to see a moose feeding in the water.
I was envious of the people queuing for the first boat cruise and wished I’d brought a change of shoes so I could join them to the impressive Spirit Island. Instead, I settled for eating my snacks on the lakeshore, taking pictures of the moose, at a safe distance, before descending back to town.
The Descent
I expected the descent back to Jasper to be fast. It wasn’t. The relatively gentle gradient meant I had to keep pedalling rather than simply letting gravity do the work.
Just after Medicine Lake, I saw a line of cars each side of the road with their warning lights flashing. This meant one thing: a bear! I was half expecting to see one as only a few weeks previous, I had encountered a grizzly bear, but from the safety of my car. There was no stopping for me. I slipped through the gap in the traffic and, out of the corner of my eye, saw the same grizzly bear as a few weeks previously, happily munching on berries. I flew between the cars that created a protective tunnel, unnoticed and continued towards Jasper—although, once safely away, I couldn’t help wondering whether cycling between these cars, past a grizzly, had really been the smartest decision, but after all, what was the alternative?
Summing Up
This is one of the nicest rides I’ve done in the Canadian Rockies. It’s a very different experience from the Bow Valley Parkway. There is more elevation, the mountains feel much closer—particularly around Medicine Lake—and, rather than spending much of the ride surrounded by forest, you get two spectacular lakes along the way.
Then there’s the wildlife. A bull elk blocking my path, marmots playing beside Medicine Lake, a moose feeding at Maligne Lake and, finally, a grizzly bear by the roadside made for a ride that delivered far more than I expected.
The gradient is generally manageable, but don’t underestimate the distance. It’s the combination of 44 kilometres and almost 900 metres of climbing that makes Maligne Lake Road a worthwhile challenge.
After waiting 23 years to ride it, I’m already thinking about the next time. Maligne Lake Road was worth the wait—and it certainly won’t be another 23 years before I ride it again.
